Day Trippin': Seville Version; or, Castles, Moors, and that tricky Columbus

We took a day trip between Christmas and New Year's Day to visit Seville (Sevilla in Spanish). Details and pictures here---but first: a very, very brief history of Spain (VERY brief):

In 711 AD, what is now Spain was invaded by the Moors, a group of mostly Berbers and Arabs from N. Africa. The Moors brought religion (primarily Islam), language (Arabic), a system of numbers, architecture, music and dance (the origins of flamenco), and much, much more. They first came through Southern Spain in the area they called Al-Andulus (Andalusia today). The Moors brought science and reason---they studied physics, chemistry, astronomy, philosophy, and mathematics. They brought literacy and education (including a network of colleges and universities) to a mostly illiterate Spain (and Europe). If you've read about the Spaniards in the New World, you know the indigenous people complained about their lack of hygiene. The Moors built public baths and made regular bathing a part of Spanish life.

Then in 1492, not only did King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel of Spain fund Christopher Columbus to sail the ocean blue, but the Moors were defeated in their last stronghold of Granada, effectively ending the Moorish reign. (Isabel and Ferdinand also expelled the Jews in 1492---Jews, Christians, and Muslims were living in mostly harmony until the Catholics decided that absolute religious rule trumped religious tolerance).

Whew, okay. Now that the very, very brief history lesson is out of the way, here's why it's important---you see the influence of the Moors everywhere you go in Spain. Churches and public buildings many times look like mosques, because they once were. When someone starts singing flamenco style, it sounds eerily like a Islamic call to prayer, because flamenco originated in Moorish culture. The Spanish phrase "ojalá" is roughly translated into "God willing," and is used to express a strong desire. It comes from the Arabic phrase "ma sha allah," which means "should God will it."

In some areas, the Christians completely destroyed anything built by the Moors, especially since the Moors included Arabic prayers carved into the stonework. Mosques were razed and churches were built in the same sites. However, in some places---mostly in Andalusia---some rulers saw the beauty and appreciated the craftsmanship of what the Moors contributed, and instead of destroying buildings, they made a few modifications to "Christianize" them.

Seville's Real Alcázar (Royal Alcázar) is a great example of this.

The Alcázar was originally built by a Caliph in the 10th century, with additions by Spanish Kings. Today, it has royal quarters where the King and Queen of Spain spend the night. The building reflects 3 completely different time periods and rulers. There is a mis-mash of styles, but most of the Alcázar is tile with amazing stonework. You see much of the Moorish influence on modern day Spanish buildings, as well. It is well preserved and a great day trip from our area.

This room has a mural of the blessings given to various explorations sponsored by Spain.

Facing the mural was several crests of explorers, the most well-known probably being Christopher Columbus. 

Columbus' legacy is quite messy in the United States; however, in Spain he is still heralded as a hero, with no apologies given. (More about that in a minute). 

Also, if you are a fan of the "Game of Thrones" television series, you will recognize a couple of locations that double as the Kingdom of Dorne. Sadly, the day was overcast and rainy (and cold!), so the yellow colors don't pop as well as they do on film. Some of the plants on the property are not native to Spain and supposedly were first introduced from seedlings that Columbus (yes, him again) and other explorers brought back from their travels to the Caribbean. 

Inside of the newest area, there are murals depicting Spain's era of exploration. The vaulted ceilings, the tile walls, and the stonework are all breathtakingly beautiful. 

Once we completed our tour of the Alcázar, we walked across the street for a lunch of tapas and then visited the Archives of the Indies. Both the Alcázar and the Archivo de Indias have been declared (along with the Cathedral) a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The building itself if beautiful, built as a merchant's exchange in the 16th century, and the building contains exhibits of the conquistadors. Having lived in Cuba, traveled throughout Mexico, and studied Latin American history, I found the contents interesting. 

And, like history, a little messy. 

Take Columbus. In Spain, October 12 is celebrated as a national holiday in honor of Columbus. Even though he was Italian, his work for the Spanish government has given him a place of honor in Spanish history. In Seville, the Alcázar and the Archives show evidence of his popularity. You walk up the stairs of the Archives and are greeted with a huge portrait of Columbus. His remains are buried in the Seville Cathedral (which we didn't visit this trip---another  trip, another day). 

In addition, you find portraits of Hernán Cortés and his explorations into Mexico. One portrait had a caption of Cortés and Montezuma, with the Aztec ruler depicted as a savage captive, the Spain conquistador as the hero. There was no mention of the slaughter of Montezuma and the destruction of the beautiful city of Teotihuacan.

Nor was there any apology for the role of Columbus in the deaths and enslavement of hundreds of native peoples. 

And as an American, I'm not pointing my fingers or saying our country is any better, because we definitely have our own ugly history that needs to be examined more from what historian Howard Zinn called the loser's point of view. I heard Cuban propaganda criticizing Spain and its role there, and in Mexico, Cortés is most definitely not a hero. All you have to do is read Zinn's essay "Columbus, the Indians, and Human Progress" and wonder why on earth anyone would celebrate Columbus Day. And yet. . . it's all presented without any of that viewpoint here in Spain. There is a cruelty to any conquest of a culture; even the Moors did not ride in and take over without force.

I just find it interested that without any irony, Columbus is still on a pedestal, and Montezuma is reduced to a heathen. I don't know if it is lack of self-awareness, or just a by-product of living in a society where you are not supposed to ever talk about the Civil War (which was in the 1930s). I am not Spanish, nor do I claim to be an expert at all on Spanish culture. And I am not criticizing my host country, either. As a Mississippian, I know what it's like to come from a state that has been vilified much for its past messy history, to the point that its many positive points have been lost on many. 

I'm just making an observation that Spain, like everywhere else, tells history from its own point of view. And the former Spanish colonies would not be what they are today without the contributions of the Spanish. From language to architecture, food to customs, they owe as much to the Spanish as Spain owes the Moors. Thankfully, we have places like the Alcázar in Seville to remind us of the influence of one culture upon another.